Carefully Dried & Milled for Discriminating Customers
Weekes has selected a producer in Virginia to supply a new line of
Southern Pine patterns. This producer slowly dries the Pine to 10% m.c.
over 19 days, which creates a softer, more stable board and prevents problems
from occurring. Then they run the patterns on state-of-the-art moulders,
again, slowly, to produce the finest Southern Pine available today!
Stocked and Available from Weekes:
|1 x 4
Clear, Tongue & Groove
|1 x 6
||Select Knotty Flooring
Tongue & Groove
|1 x 4
|Lengths - 8 - 16', heavy longs
|* Multi-Plank TM
- Their grade for perfectly clear, two-sided patterns
|* Uni-Plank TM
- Their grade for a clear face, 1-sided pattern
You'll Find These Features Unique to Southern Pine:
|Stronger and more durable than other species of Pine|
|Less expensive than other species of Pine or Fir for comparable
|Better tallies - specified lengths in some cases|
|State of the Art Drying & Milling|
|Dried to Avg. 10% M.C.|
|19 Day slow drying cycle eliminates brittleness, provides better milling
|It's stable. No shrinkage or cupping occurs.|
|Hand fed moulder finish|
Southern Pine Flooring: Flooring Installation
Inspect plywood nailing bases
for evenness and sand any peaking edges, leveling the seams. Flooring
should lay perpendicular to the floor joists. It should also lay with
the strips spanning the longer room dimension end-to-end. It is
advantageous if the overall strip layout runs lengthwise the same
direction as traffic lanes rather than at right angles across the strip
widths. (See Figure 9)
Begin with the "starter strip"
of flooring alongside an exterior wall, preferably the longest room
dimension. Refer to Figure 8. If flooring will be installed in several
rooms, locate the starter strip in a hallway that includes the longest
end-to-end span. The starter strip will be the beginning strip in rooms
either to the left or right of it.
Strike a chalk line one strip
wide plus 1/2" from the starting wall, making certain chalk lines are
square. This 1/2" gap is a buffer zone for expansion. Mouldings will
conceal the 1/2" gap between finished flooring and end walls. Allow a
1/8" space around door jambs and wall partitions. Refer to Figure 10.
Face-nail starter strip tongue side out, with 6d or 8d finishing nails,
1" from tongue side. Countersink nail heads and align groove side with
chalk line. Refer to Figure 8.
Each course will be nailed with
your back to the starter wall, working from left to right. Recommended
nail spacing is 8½ to 10½ and double-nailed 1" to 3" from ends. Use
strips 8" or longer on the ending wall and begin the next course with
the remaining piece. Loosely lay the next 7 or 8 rows. Do not use strips
shorter than 6". Arrange lengths randomly, avoiding clusters of short
strips. Using a tapping block, insert each strip groove to tongue.
Blind-nail the tongue into the subfloor. (See Figure 11) Avoid nailing
into subfloor seams, as nails will not anchor properly. Nail and
countersink 2 to 3 rows, clearing the starter wall for the use of a
power nailer. Countersink all face nails and nail each strip end. Nail
strip sides using an 8½ spacing.
If necessary, rip the last row leaving a 1/2" space between the wall
and flooring. Face-nail the last runs of the floor when unable to
blind-nail by hand.
Proper nailing should
incorporate using enough nails, proper spacing, and the correct nail
type. It will also reduce the likelihood of floor squeaks.
7d or 8d
1" to 3"
7d or 8d
The installation of plank
flooring (4" and wider) is similar to that of strip floor installations,
with a few noteworthy exceptions.
Generally, recommended fastener
spacing is 8"; however, consult the flooring manufacturer's instructions
for specific fastener information.
The wider widths of plank
flooring increases the amount of expansion and shrinkage related
to moisture absorption and evaporation, magnifying board separations and
cupping. Applying a sealer to the planking underside prior to
installation may reduce the impact of potential moisture change
problems. Experienced flooring installers recommend face-nailing plank
flooring that is 8" and wider. Face nailing can further reduce cupping.
In addition, plank floors are
not recommended for
installation over radiant-heated subfloors.
Installation of the subfloor
nailing base over radiant-heated systems is slightly different. Plywood
panels cut in 4'x4' sections and saw-kerfed on the underside with a 12"
grid 3/8" inches deep will adhere to a radiant-heated floor using a 35
sq.ft. per gallon cutback mastic spread rate. Gluing the plywood in
place avoids damage nailing may cause.
Southern Pine Flooring:
Finishing and Care
Proper finishing begins with thorough removal of all construction
debris from the newly installed floor. Nail all loose flooring and
replace any damaged boards. Countersink and fill any exposed nail heads,
then inspect the floor for any other surface imperfections or
Sanding the Floor
Always sand lengthwise in the
direction of the strips, never across. With two-thirds the room length
in front of you, begin walking a drum sander forward while slowly
lowering the drum to the floor surface. Before stopping the forward
pass, slowly raise the drum and stop. Walk the drum sander in the
opposite direction, slowly lowering the drum, walking backwards along
the same path. Repeat the stopping and drum lifting or starting and drum
lowering procedures on each directional change. Begin a new pass forward
every 3" to 4" (about the width of one strip) into the unsanded area.
After completing the entire room width, walk forward in the opposite
direction to sand the remaining area. In other words, you will be
walking forward facing the opposite wall. Overlap the passes two to
three feet. Refer to Figure 12.
Use an edge sander in closets
and in areas the drum sander will not reach. Generally, recommended
sanding results can be achieved with three sanding cuts (progressively
using grits of coarse, medium and fine). Finally, the use of a screen
disk (same grit as the fine cut) on a buffing machine blends the
telltale marks of edge and drum sanders.
Stains & Sealers
Floor finishes provide both a
protective and decorative surface. A stain is one option, adding warmth
and charm. Stains are available in a wide range of colors.
If the new floor is not stained,
it is recommended that a protective sealer be applied. The two types of
sealers are penetrating sealers and surface sealers.
floor waxes that prevent the penetration of liquids and dirt into the
flooring. Chips and scratches are maintainable with small amounts of
wax. On new floors, a liquid buffing wax applied to a wax finish forms
an additional barrier to dirt and stains. Read the buffing wax label
carefully, making certain it is suitable for wood floors.
Do not use any product
Refinishing existing flooring
generally does not require a preliminary sanding but, rather, a thorough
cleaning and another coat of wax, without leaving any evidence of wax
overlap in heavy traffic areas. Penetrating sealers have a lower luster
(or a more moderate shine). As the patina sheen wears away, a
reapplication of wax will restore it.
other hand, do not penetrate the wood-wearing surface. Instead, they
create a wood-bonding surface layer. Different types including
polyurethanes, moisture-cured urethanes, and acid-cured urethanes.
Polyurethanes are the more
popular surface sealers. They provide both durability and moisture
resistance. They are available in oil and water-based formulations, in
addition to high-gloss, semi-gloss, matte, and satin finishes.
Polyurethane sealers offer
excellent resistance to water, scuff marks and scratches, and provide a
durable finish for high-traffic areas such as hallways, kitchens,
bathrooms and family rooms. However, polyurethane finishes have a
tendency to "yellow" as they age, slightly tinting the floor color. When
regular maintenance no longer provides satisfactory floor surface
appearance, sanding is recommended before applying a new coat.
Moisture-cure urethanes are the
hardest of the surface sealers. These urethane sealers are extremely
prone to errors. Do not attempt to apply urethane sealers without the
supervision of an experienced floor finisher.
Acid-cured urethanes, also known
as "Swedish finishes", provide a clearer and somewhat harder surface
finish than polyurethanes. Again, due to the technical intricacies of
application, consult a floor finishing professional.
The finish selected will affect
how often the floor needs cleaning. A lighter floor will hide dust
better; however, dirt, spills, and grit may remain more visible leading
to more frequent sweeping. A lighter floor coloring enhances room size;
a room appears larger and brighter.
On the other hand, darker colors
of finishes tend to conceal scratches, cracks, grit, and sediment, and
are more forgiving than lighter colors. Dark floor colors help to
camouflage the visual damages of heel marks, gouges, and furniture
scratches. Since dark colors absorb light rather than reflect it, a dark
floor color may make a room appear smaller than lighter colors.
When applying penetrating stains
and finishes, begin by applying enough of the finish lengthwise to cover
about one foot from the side wall to the mouldings. Using cloth rags, a
brush, or a lambswool pad, wipe evenly to the wall. Apply the stain or
wax, then remove and wipe away the excess. To begin a new run, overlap
about 3" (one strip wide) taking care to remove any excess and
preventing lap marks. Water, perspiration, hand prints, and knee
imprints are impenetrable by stains and waxes. Prevent these common
causes of discoloration and spotting by avoiding all unnecessary contact
with the floor.
Allow overnight drying,
returning the next day for a power buff with a fiber buffing or No.1
steel wool. Clean the floor to remove all dust. Apply a second wax
layer, or if a stain was applied on the first pass, apply the first
layer of wax.
With polyurethane finishes,
apply along the length of the room, maintaining a wet edge and
feathering brush-stroke overlaps. If edges tack dry, do not overlap
brush strokes. Any minor mistakes can be corrected with a buffer.
Allow polyurethane layer to dry
(usually overnight) then buff with 120 grit screen or No.2 steel wool
pad. Three coats provide optimum floor protection and durability.
Remember to buff between each coat.
With proper care of the finish, a Southern Pine floor is easily
maintained and will keep its "new" look for many years.
If the builder,
floor installer, or previous owner does not provide a record indicating
whether a surface sealer or a penetrating sealer was applied, a simple
test will determine what type of finish was used. In a closet or other
inconspicuous location, use a coin or knife to scratch the floor
surface. If the finish flakes, it is likely to be a surface sealer. If
it does not flake, it is most likely a wax finish.
Sweep the floor
regularly or vacuum, but do not use a beater-bar type.
spills promptly. Use No.2 steel wool on stains caused by water,
cigarette burns, ink, or pets. Rewax the area.
Do not use
water to maintain wax finishes. For stains, use vinegar, wood floor
cleaners, mineral spirits or ammonia. Use very fine steel wool to clean
the area, then dry it. Reapply the same color and brand of stain wax, if
can be made by applying a small amount of wax to the affected area, then
require very different care and cleaning procedures than do penetrating
promptly with a dry cloth. Use a damp cloth on sticky spills, then wipe
dry with another clean cloth.|
regularly reduces scratching. Do not use beater-bar
vacuums on wood floors.|
ammonia, oil soap, or any other household cleaner on surface sealers;
surface damage and dulling will result.|
maintenance, use a solution of 1/4 cup vinegar to 4 cups of warm water,
dipping it with a clean cloth and wringing dry. Wipe or mop the floor.
Using a second cloth, wipe the floor dry.
Do not use waxes
to restore the shine on surface sealers. To restore original luster,
remove room contents, clean thoroughly, then steel wool the entire
surface. Use only the same brand surface sealer as on the existing floor
(or read carefully the recommended finish instructions of the sealer
Southern Pine Flooring:
Floor Board Separation
Floor board separation or
“cracks” under normal circumstances are to be expected in any wood
floor. Plank floors, especially, shrink up to 2.5 times more than strip
floors. Floor board separation is normal under the following
- Board gaps found during
dry winter months close and
disappear in spring.
- In strip floors,
separations up to the
thickness of a dime are
- Panelizing caused by
Panelizing can also be
caused by the finish
material cementing several
board coarses together,
creating fewer cracks.
Consequently, the resulting
cracks may be wider than a
Dryer air from the
home's heating system
If floor was acclimated
during wet conditions
and then installed, the
building was not ready
for flooring. The
structure was not in its
occupied condition when
the flooring was
occurred after the floor
Floor does not have a
Not a defect in the
floor, if the boards
expand in the summer
months, closing the
flooring has a
polyurethane finish, a
polyurethane filler can
be troweled into the
every 8" to 10",
countersink and fill
holes. Refer to Table 2,
the equilibrium moisture
content (EMC) and apply
a sealing finish.
Inadequate crawl space
building (windows and/or
doors not installed when
flooring was delivered),
missing or improper
solutions include adding
installing a vapor
barrier in crawl space,
checking foundation for
board cupping (convex)
board edges higher than
(see floor board
Locate and correct
board cupping (concave)
board edges are lower
boards were sanded when
cupped. Later, when the
floor loses moisture,
the underneath side of
the boards lay flat
exposing the reverse
and correct moisture
cause. Allow building
components to dry
Inadequate nailing of
either the boards or the
Locate cause and renail.
Refer to Table 2, under